looks grey but it was a nice day. grey whale cove is one of the most beautiful surf spots in the world. it's like a slice of big sur in my back yard.photo 1
almost head high, wind-up for a big slash, i swear
sequence 1
the drop
driving for the open face
stand tall in the no barrel
drive it home
to close outsequence 2
not bad for a days work. I prayed for surf and i got it. then just as icing some guy is shooting photos on the beach. fear told me i'd be dork if i asked the guy if he got any shots of me. rather than act all too cool i approached the dude and asked him what he was shooting for and he gave me his email. got these shots on monday. G.O.D. provides. all photos by mark valenta. thanks mark.
i felt so grateful that day. i live in one of the most beautiful places on earth. stay positive. imagine greatness.
